france
leave lots of time to crowd in to see the Mona LisaAugust 2006
Ah France! The seductive Queen of Europe. We managed to visit some of her jewels – Reims (home of Champagne), Dijon (home of mustard and more wine), Lyon (with a rich World War history), Arles and Avignon (food and MORE wine), the Loire Valley (yes, more wine) and of course, Paris herself.
Yes – France is a Queen. All her cities are queens – mighty, regal, and seductive in their power over you. Or, in the case of Lyon, cold in her embrace. It was amazing to see the changes and flow in France from the more northern areas (Paris and Reims) down the Rhone valley to Arles and Avignon in the south in the heart of Provence, and then to go to the Loire Valley (in Western France) and see the lives there amongst the famous Chateaux. If there is one thing which springs to mind for France – it is culture.
Or Culture (with a capital C).
It is cultured – structured, manicured and expertly placed. Their incredible passions (and they are passionate) are channelled, funnelled and designed into their work, their lives and their buildings. The incredible energy of the country springs forth, but is held in check. You WANT to be me, it commands regally. You WANT to be Culture, and I am Culture. It is design that is beyond the audience – drawing them in with its power and desirability. The elitist brand mark.
It is wonderful, but can be a bit daunting at times. The French Revolution springs to mind – a moment when the passions spilled forth and a king and queen were beheaded, and replaced by a republic and the ideals of equality and fraternity. This hotheadedness turned in on itself in an orgy of political infighting until, barely 20 years later, Napoleon came forward and decided to rule France not as a king, but as a Roman-styled Emperor! Yes, even Culture can get out of control sometimes.
Which reminds me – at least once in a visit to France (preferably much more than once, if the wallet allows) dinner must be taken at a proper French restaurant. We were fortunate enough to do so at one of the Chateaux we stayed at – starting with aperitifs on their terrace balcony then moving slowly through a magnificent dinner of incredibly structured and dignified dishes. A wonderful night, but the dishes were a little out of control, with too many flavours being thrown in due to a fit of passionate inspiration (or so I’d like to belive). Ah, French food – there is nothing like proper French cuisine. Whether it is worth the money as something you could do continually is another matter, but it is an experience, and a taste, like no other. Come to me, the Culture beckons through magnificent cream sauces and terrines.
paris and the north
Where France is the Queen of Europe, Paris is the Queen of France, or a gorgeous stranger at a cocktail party – sultry, well dressed, mysterious, and beckoning. There is so much to see and do in Paris, that it cannot be experienced at once. Paris absolutely seethes with life and power. It surges through the city itself, and seems to energise the inhabitants – from the African immigrants trying to sell you an Eiffel Tower keychain, to the haute couture ladies stepping from high fashion to high fashion. There is a slight seediness to Paris underneath the balconies and in the allies behind the architectural visions – a slight danger to it that is present, but not threatening. Instead, it is a part of that same passion that fuels the city as much as the manicured facade.It harshly polite, well groomed and incredibly powerful in its vision. The grand architects of Paris all had a passion for power, and visions of grandeur for the city. It is structured, planned and visionary in so many ways, and rules the Culture that is France. To succeed, it feels that one must be driven by a desire to “be” something special, bigger than human. The statues of Napoleon, dressed as a Roman Emperor, attest to this.
And then there is Reims, the capital of the Champagne region, which probably epitomises the Culture that is France. Wealthy (on the back of the champagne industry) with a slightly seedy (yet rarely seen) underbelly – it is Culture in the extreme. The pride of the champagne industry, which is the grand symbol of the rich, famous and the well groomed, can be seen in the city and people. The city is relatively new, since much was destroyed during WW2, but it has been rebuilt in a fairly older fashion, to retain the image of history and tradition. The cathedral (with war damage still being restored) is incredible, filled with some amazing sculpture and stained glass (including some designed by Marc Chagall, the famous 20th C French artist). Reims is groomed, almost unapproachable, and desired by so very many.
provence and the south
The south of France has always been traditionally poor, and somewhat disenfranchised by the north. It’s a harsher, hotter climate, more akin to Spain and Italy. And as such, the passions run hotter, as do the wines. It is probably the most approachable of all of France. It is still fiercely independent, and the culture often seems daunting, but the passion for life to make you WANT to be there. It is a combination of France’s Culture and Italy’s joie de vive, so clearly I fell in love with the area…Some incredible history and buildings from Roman times, as well as a most individual and independent local culture of French cowboys, make it a very interesting place. Where the cities of the north are more planned and structured, Provence has a much more Italian and mediaeval feel – with winding streets, strange corners and quirky people.
The Rhone Valley, source of (probably) my favourite wines, is an incredible place to visit. Avignon, at the southern end of the Valley, was the home to the Papacy during the turbulent politics of the 1300s, when the Popes fled Rome for more friendly pastures. They established massive fortified palaces here, in a region already rich with Roman history, and the main palace still endures. Little remains of the original fortress at Chateauneuf-de-pape, which stands on a hill above the vineyards. It has endured wars, occupation, blistering heat and cold winds, and today its silhouette dominates the life of the local wines. The Festival d’Avignon was on at the time we visited, and the creaking narrow streets were bursting with numerous performers and visitors. Modern performers mingle with old-time acrobatics and sword-fighting exhibitions beneath ancient buildings temporarily festooned with playbill posters while one man whose specialty was bird whistling seemed to be on every corner. Orange, once a massive Roman urban hub, has a massive Roman theatre, which is still mostly intact, and still hosts numerous concerts and performances.
loire valley
The Loire valley, in the West of France (just below Normandy and Brittany), is filled with old chateaux and acres upon acres of vineyards. It was the home of the French kings before Paris became the capital. As such, it retains an immaculate regal-ness and pride in its history. There are some incredible buildings there – from Chateau Chenonceaux which sits on a bridge across the river, to d’Amboise, once a king’s palace which dominates the skyline of the town of Amboise (one of the most charming towns we visited) to Chambord, a monstrous chateau with massive lands for hunting and game. The gardens are immaculate, and the marble well cared for. The buildings are old, and feel old, and yet one knows that the original impact still endures – planned to make the visitor gasp in awe at the majesty. Chambord is planned on an exact scale, using mathematical logic, and clever structural ingenuity to create an awesome impression. The Culture is strong here, and it sometimes feels like the heart of France.And of course, there is the underbelly – the hidden passions which are hidden beneath the façade. Stories of mistresses, revenge and desire abound, most in Chenonceaux, which was given to King Henry II's mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Upon his death, his wife, Catherine de Medici, seized it back, renovating it significantly to make it grander. And yet Diane endures in the symbology – the letters of H and C can be seen everywhere (the king and queens initials), yet are presented in such a way that the letter D can also be seen.
Leonardo Da Vinci’s chateau, Clos Luce, and final resting place, are also here. A fitting resting place for that most ingenious, and devilishly clever, of men.
where else?
And then there are places like Lyon, which is a mighty city (France’s second largest). It is a more modern city, and feels the coldest of France’s queens. While mighty, she is utilitarian and demanding of your obedience to her Culture. As such, I found it the most unfriendly, and unpretty. It is a grand city, and the Culture and history are incredible, but the city is a little too cold.Burgundy, home to some of the most envied wines in the world, and some incredible history, is a very interesting place to visit, especially the village of Beaune. Although the wines are not to my taste, the quality mustard, and the pride in their culture is something I truly respect. Some great men lived here, and still do.
