netherlands
i just visited amsterdam, and all i got was raw meatJuly 2006
Is so far one of the least photo-friendly places I have ever visited. This is a big call, of course. I am a firm believer that cities have lives of their own. I cannot remember who said it, but there is an analogy that a city is a living creature, and all the humans are the blood cells. Essential to make the whole thing run, but they are not the “soul” – the life – of the creature. A city’s life comes from the combination of years/decades and centuries of building, history and energy. New York has a life that goes beyond the people. Sydney is another. I have the feeling that Rome would still stink and hum and live even without all its inhabitants.
Unfortunately Amsterdam seems to lack this life, for me. Yen says that the buildings did not “speak” to me. This is true – I felt no connection to it. While the architecture of many buildings (such as the Rijksmuseum) is very good, and the ever-present leaning of the buildings inwards over the canals adds a great deal of character to the crowded streets of Jordaan and the old city, Amsterdam unfortunately lacks real personality and coherency as a place. It is interesting, but not remarkable. Each corner has something to it – something nice.
It is, of course, the people, who inhabit Amsterdam that make it zing. It encompasses that melting pot ideal – with many people and cultures all thrown together and cohabiting the single space like a big old stew. Drugged out hippies and beatniks roll with homeboys and jocks. Cultured and class walk the same alleys as bucks parties from London (saw at least four of them, drunk, dressed up and having a huge time). Very interesting, although sometimes I got the feeling the whole thing tries a bit too hard, as it often lacks the passion and independent individuality as supposedly inspired the whole city in the beginning, sometimes seeming a “by the numbers” place of Liberation! Individualism! Freedom! Love! Sex! Maybe it was one too many loud Americans/Hongkies/Australians/Englishmen on holidays, queuing up to pay for a few minutes with a bouncing bosom in a window, or the pair in our hotel lobby who were amazed that you could buy BEER from a vending machine. Duuude! Waay!
If anything, I learnt that the red light district should be visited after dark, as the ladies of the night are far more beautiful than the ladies of the day. Also – it is an inspiration to see how well the melting pot works. It’s hippie, drug, surfer, skater, postmodern culture at its finest (although, like postmodernism, also a little tired). Drugged, inspired, chaotic and abstract. Maybe not a melting pot, but more a street market, filled with a dash of every type of person imaginable, a little danger, a little craziness and loads of claustrophobic fun.
We also visited the Van Gogh museum, which was beautiful and inspiring in itself, but was also hosting a special exhibition of Treasures from the Meiji Period. Van Gogh had a real affinity for Japanese artwork, and this collection was incredible. The Meiji Period was the enlightenment/reformation of Japanese culture and society at the turn of the century when they started a period of broad based trade and contact with the West. Artisans were encouraged to produce fine work, and the work detailed here is beyond description. Similar to some of the statues and churches seen in Rome, it is jaw-droppingly inspiring to see every feather lovingly crafted onto a wooden statue of an eagle that stands about 5 feet high and 6 feet wide.
Also - poffertjes (little pancakes covered in icing sugar) are awesome. Yum. The frites (french fries) are also very tasty. The "raw meat" of the title was steak tartare (raw mince beef) - it was nice, and tastes like slightly soft sausages, or meatballs. Just raw. Goes well with mustard or beer.
